History of Fashion in the Americas

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The bibliography below consists of select resources related to the study of the history of fashion and textiles in the Americas, beyond Spanish America. You may also find this list in Zotero.

Arnold, Janet. 1970. “The Classical Influence on the Cut, Construction and Decoration of Women’s Dress c.1785-1820.” Costume 4 (Sup. 1): 17–23.

Baumgarten, Linda. 2002. What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing in Colonial and Federal America. The Colonial Williamsburg Collection. Williamsburg Decorative Arts. New Haven; London: Yale University Press.

———. 2007. “The Layered Look: Design in Eighteenth-Century Quilted Coats.” Dress 34 (1): 7–31.

Benhamou, Reed. 2001. “Who Controls This Private Space? The Offense and Defense of the Hoop in Early Eighteenth-Century France and England.” Dress 28 (1): 13–22.

Bickham, Troy. 2005. “‘A Conviction of the Reality of Things’: Material Culture, North American Indians and Empire in Eighteenth-Century Britain.” Eighteenth-Century Studies 39 (1): 29–47.

Bissonnette, Anne. 2004. “Fashion on the Ohio Frontier: 1790-1840.” Dress 31 (1): 57–71.

Brekke, Linzy. 2007. “Fashioning America: Clothing, Consumerism, and the Politics of Appearance in the Early Republic.”

Breskin, Isabel. 2001. “‘On the Periphery of a Greater World’: John Singleton Copley’s ‘Turquerie’ Portraits.” Winterthur Portfolio 36 (2/3): 97–123.

Buchanan, Brenna. 2017. “‘To Dress Against Nature and Reason’: Fashion and Transgressive Dressing in the Mid-to-Late Eighteenth Century British North Atlantic.” Ph.D. dissertation, Ames, Iowa: University of Iowa.

Buck, Anne. 1973. “The Dress of Domestic Servants in the Eighteenth Century.” Costume 7 (Sup. 1): 10–16.

Buckridge, Steeve O. 2004. The Language of Dress: Resistance and Accommodation in Jamaica, 1760-1890. Kingston: University of the West Indies Press.

Cangany, Catherine. 2012. “Fashioning Moccasins: Detroit, the Manufacturing Frontier, and the Empire of Consumption, 1701-1835.” William & Mary Quarterly 69 (2): 265–304.

Eacott, Jonathan. 2012. “Making an Imperial Compromise: The Calico Acts, the Atlantic Colonies, and the Structure of the British Empire.” William & Mary Quarterly 69 (4): 731–62.

Feeser, Andrea. 2013. Red, White, and Black Make Bluew: Indigo in the Fabric of Colonial South Carolina Life. Athens: University of Georgia Press.

Fortune, Brandon Brame. 2002. “‘Studious Men Are Always Painted in Gowns’: Charles Willson Peale’s Benjamin Rush and the Question of Banyans in Eighteenth-Century Anglo-American Portraiture.” Dress 29 (1): 27–40.

Ginsburg, Madeleine. 1972. “The Tailoring and Dressmaking Trades, 1700-1850.” Costume 6 (1): 64–71.

Haulman, Kate. 2011. The Politics of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century America. Chapel Hill, NC: University of North Carolina Press.

Hood, Adrienne D. 2003. The Weaver’s Craft: Cloth, Commerce and Industry in Early Pennsylvania. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press.

Johnson, Laura E. 2005. “‘Goods to Clothe Themselves’: Native Consumers and Native Images on the Pennsylvania Trade Frontier, 1712-1760.” Winterthur Portfolio 40 (4): 47–76.

———. 2010. “Material Translations: Cloth in Early American Encounters, 1520-1750.” Ph.D. dissertation, University of Delaware.

Kidwell, Claudia Brush. 1997. “Are Those Clothes Real? Transforming the Way Eighteenth-Century Portraits Are Studied.” Dress 24 (1): 3–15.

King, Stewart R. 2001. Blue Coat or Powdered Wig: Free People of Color in Pre-Revolutionary Saint-Domingue. Athens: University of Georgia Press.

Kraak, Deborah. 2000. “Variations on ‘Plainness’: Quaker Dress in Eighteenth-Century Philadelphia.” Costume 34: 51–63.

Lara, Silvia Hunold. 1997. “The Signs of Color: Women’s Dress and Racial Relations in Salvador and Rio de Janeiro, ca. 1750-1815.” Colonial Latin American Review 6: 205–24.

———. 2002. “Customs and Costumes: Carlos Julião and the Image of Black Slaves in Late Eighteenth-Century Brazil.” In Representing the Body of the Slave, by Thomas Wiedeman and Jane Gardner, 125–46. London: Frank Cass.

Lazaro, David E. 2006. “Fashion and Frugality: English Patterned Silks in Connecticut River Valley Women’s Dress, 1660-1800.” Dress 33 (1): 57–77.

Loren, Diana DiPaolo. 2010. Archaeology of Clothing and Bodily Adornment in Colonial America. Gainsville: University Press of Florida.

Mansfield, Alan. 1968. “Dyeing and Cleaning Clothes in the Late Eighteenth and Early Nineteenth Centuries.” Costume 2 (1): 24–29.

Marly, Diana de. 1990. Dress in North America: The New World, 1492-1800. New York: Holmes & Meier.

McNeil, Peter, and Giorgio Riello. 2005. “The Art and Science of Walking: Gender, Space, and the Fashionable Body in the Long Eighteenth Century.” Fashion Theory 9 (2): 175–204.

Miller, Lesley Ellis. 2010. “An Enigmatic Bourgeois: Jean Revel Dons a Nightgown for His Portrait.” Costume 44 (1): 46–55.

Miller, Marla R. 743. “Gender, Artisanry, and Craft Tradition in Early New England: The View through the Eye of a Needle.” William & Mary Quarterly 60 (4): 2003.

———. 2003. “Gownmaking as a Trade for Women in Eighteenth-Century Rural New England.” Dress 30 (1): 21–37.

Montgomery, Florence M. 1970. Printed Textiles: English and American Cottons and Linens, 1700-1850. New York: Viking Press.

Newell, Aimee E. 2014. A Stitch in Time: The Needlework of Aging Women in Antebellum America. Athens, OH: Ohio University Press.

Parmal, Pamela A. 1997. “Fashion and the Growing Importance of the Marchande Des Modes in Mid-Eighteenth-Century France.” Costume 31 (1): 68–77.

Pietsch, Johannes. 2013. “On Different Types of Women’s Dresses in France in the Louis XVI Period.” Fashion Theory 17 (4): 397–416.

Reinhardt, Leslie. 2002. “‘The Work of Fancy and Taste’: Copley’s Invented Dress and the Case of Rebecca Boylston.” Dress 29 (1): 4–18.

Shannon, Timothy J. 1993. “Dressing for Success on the Mohawk Frontier: Hendrick, William Johnson, and the Indian Fashion.” William & Mary Quarterly 53 (1): 13–42.

Silverstein, Cory C. 2000. “Clothed Encounters: The Power of Dress in Relations Between Anishnaabe and British Peoples in the Great Lakes Region, 1760-2000.” Ph.D. dissertation, McMaster University.

Staples, Kathleen, and Madelyn C. Shaw. 2013. Clothing Through American History: The British Colonial Era. Santa Barbara: ABC-CLIO.

Stols, Eddy. 1996. “L’âge d’or Du Déshabillé: Échanges et Cultures Vestimentaires Au Brésil Colonial Du XVIIIe Siècle.” In Échanges et Cultures Textiles Dans l’Europe Pré-Industrielle, edited by Jacques Bottin and Nicole Pellegrin, Collection Histoire No. 2:277–94. Révue Du Nord., Hors Série. Lille: Université Charles de Gaulle.

Styles, John D., and Amanda Vickery, eds. 2006. Gender, Taste, and Material Culture in Britain and North America, 1700-1830. New Haven: Yale University Press.

Summers, Leigh. 2002. “Yes, They Did Wear Them: Working-Class Women and Corsetry in the Nineteenth Century.” Costume 36 (1): 65–74.

Ulrich, Laurel Thatcher. 1991. “Cloth, Clothing, and Early American Social History.” Dress 18 (1): 39–48.

———. 2001. The Age of Homespun: Objects and Stories in the Creation of an American Myth. New York: Knopf.

Waldstreicher, David. 1999. “Reading the Runaways: Self-Fashioning, Print Culture, and Confidence in Slavery in the Eighteenth-Century Mid-Atlantic.” William & Mary Quarterly 56 (3): 243–72.

Waterhouse, Harriet. 2007. “A Fashionable Confinement: Whaleboned Stays and the Pregnant Woman.” Costume 41 (1): 53–65.

Weaver, Karol K. 2011. “Fashioning Freedom: Slave Seamstresses in the Atlantic World.” Journal of Women’s History 24 (1): 44–59.

White, Shane, and Graham White. 1995. “Slave Clothing and African-American Culture in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries.” Past & Present 148: 149–85.

White, Sophie. 1997. “Dress in French Colonial Louisiana, 1699-1769: The Evidence from Notarial Sources.” Dress 24 (1): 69–75.

———. 2000. “The Shape of French Costume Studies: Focus on the Eighteenth Century.” Dress 27 (1): 3–8.

———. 2003. “‘Wearing Three or Four Handkerchiefs around His Collar, and Elsewhere about Him’: Constructions of Masculinity and Ethnicity in French Colonial New Orleans.” Gender & History 15 (3): 528–49.

———. 2013. Wild Frenchmen and Frenchified Indians: Material Culture and Race in Colonial Louisiana. Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press.

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